Plain Sailing

Check out the appeal of sail courtesy of 'Plain Sailing'.

This company based at Brixham Marina provides charters and training for sail power and motor boats. www.plainsailing.co.uk

A HISTORIC CIRCULAR WALK AROUND BRIXHAM

As Brixham is carved into steep hillsides, this scenic seaside circular walk could easily be described as the ‘Impossible One', simply because it is predominately flat with only two short climbs. The first being from Broad Steps to Furzeham Green, the second from the entrance of the Berry Head Hotel to the common.

The walk is about five miles in length, but with so much to see, it's best to allow at least three hours. There are five car parks en-route – Town Centre, Freshwater, Breakwater, Shoalstone , Berry Head Country Park – each could be the starting point, but this description commences from the car park in the centre of town.

Harbour, with statue & Golden Hind   Fishermen on the Breakwater   Berry Head from the sea   View over the rooftops of the outer harbour.

From the town centre car park, take the steps that exit into Middle Street, cross the road, and take the short low climb up Broad Steps. Turn right (left to see All Saint's Church) and walk the narrow lanes between the old fisherman's cottages, upwards until you come to lower Furzeham Green. Walk into the park, turn right at the centre and look seawards to absorb the splendid sea views beyond the breakwater.

Directly behind is Furzeham School , where former Prime Minister, James Callaghan, attended. His father, a coastguard, was stationed in the town in the 1920s.

Leave the park at the bottom left entrance, which is where Edgar Cole's Coal Depot once was.

Lower down in the gardens, which you pass, remain the sites of the searchlight, anti-aircraft and naval gun emplacements. Descend through the archway, follow the path down to Fishcombe Cove and then walk back towards Brixham at sea level, passing the Astra Zeneca Environmental Laboratory in Freshwater Quarry, the Yacht Club in Oxen Cove and the Fish Market, with it's sign ‘Welcome to Brixham Port'. Not that I've drank it myself!

As you join the roadway at Overgang, the harbour spreads out before you. On one side there's the sight, sound and smell of the fishing industry, while on the other sheltering sides are row upon row of pastel coloured fisherman's cottages that tower above the harbourside buildings and shops.

On the tide, between the quays and ancient harbour walls, idle a mixture of boats of all shapes, sizes and colours – trawlers, yachts, pleasure craft, tenders and the replica of Sir Francis Drake's ship, The Golden Hind, in which he circumnavigated the globe. The link being that rake sailed into Torbay after the sea battle with the Spanish Armada in 1588 with the captured galleon, Nostra Senora del Rosario.

Before reaching the old fish market, there is an obelisk identifying the spot where William Prince of Orange landed on November 5th, 1688, and further, in front of the Strand Art Gallery , is a statue of the Prince that has stood since November 1889. As you walk slowly around the periphery of the harbour try to grasp a feel for the place, the past, the people, their trades, their lives. This is Brixham's heritage, this is Fishtown.

As you step onto the modern waterfront walkway immediately in front of the H M Coastguard headquarters, you see the fine views of the outer harbour where inevitably the heritage fleet – Regard, Vigilance, Pilgrim, Leader, Provident, Golden Vanity – renovated sailed fishing vessels, can be seen. Often in summer, hordes of young children crabbing with their lines and buckets line the walkway while their parents keep a watchful eye from the comfort of the tables outside The Prince William Bar & Carvery. This area was once the shipyards adjacent to King's Quay, where H M naval ships took on provisions from Cowtown, the agricultural end of town, and fresh water piped from the reservoir at Bolton Cross.

The walkway leads you past floating jetties, Grenville House, which was formerly the British Seaman's Boy Home, an orphanage from 1863 until 1988 and re-opened in 1990 as an Outdoor Education Centre; the Yacht Marina; the R.N.L.I. Lifeboat Station until you reach the slipway before the breakwater. The slipway, known locally as the ‘hard', was constructed purposely for Operation Overlord, the D-Day Landings in Normandy on Tuesday June 6th 1944.

The breakwater today is 1000 yards long and has not been extended since 1916. Originally built in 1843, it was less than 500 yards in length. It was first extended after the Great Gale of 1866 when 50 vessels perished and 100 lives were lost. Up until recent years a pipeline ran the whole length from the oil depot in Breakwater Quarry to the oil jetty. Walk the breakwater to the lighthouse and back and see how the bell tower of All Saint 's Church has dominated the skyline since it was built in 1815.

Reverend Henry Francis Lyte, a Scotsman and hymn writer, was the pastor here from 1823 until his death in 1847, aged just 54. After his last service, he wrote ‘Abide With Me', the adopted F.A. Cup Final anthem. He died in Nice , France where he is buried. Looking towards Berry Head you see the limestone quarry, the Berry Head Hotel and Shoalstone Sea Water Pool. This is the direction we now head.

Cross the top of Breakwater Beach and climb the steps to Berry Head Road . After 100 yards turn left onto the narrow pathway that leads to Shoalstone Pool and Café, returning to the road through the car park which fronts the old coastguard houses. Stroll between the two old gate pillars that lead to the Berry Head Hotel. Originally built as a Military Hospital in 1809, it became the residence of the Reverend Lyte from 1832. Pass the entrance and turn left through the style into the woods that lead up to Hardy's Point on the common.

Here, the walls of the Northern Fort on the promontory can be clearly seen. The fort was built to stave off the threat of invasion during the French Wars (1793 to 1815) and was manned by 1000 men, but saw no action. It closed in 1817, two years after Wellington defeated Napoleon at Waterloo. Coincidently, Napoleon spent several days as a prisoner on board HMS Bellerophon moored off Brixham while waiting to be exiled to St Helena, where he died.

Enter the main entrance of the fort and stroll directly eastwards to the end of the headland to the lighthouse. Built in 1905, it's the highest (200 feet above sea level) and lowest (less than 10 feet in height) in Britain . Here, too, is the old Artillery Store which houses an exhibition telling the story of Berry Head. Return the way you came passing the old Gatehouse which is now a Café, and head towards the Southern Fort. Take the path to the right of the fort and stay on the path that hugs the coastline. After about three quarters of a mile, with Sharkham Point and St Mary's Beach (Mudstone) in view, turn right onto a tarmaced pathway that runs beside houses. Walk northwards in a straight line along this path, into Centry Road and Lower Rea Road, turning right when the road bears left. Walk downwards towards the sea, then down and left towards the harbour, stopping to enjoy the panoramic view over the roof tops. Descend Bay View Steps onto King Street , cross the road and walk down into Fore Street, passing the Coffin House at Temperance Place .

Now back into town, you are faced with the choice of returning to the main car park where your journey began, or retire to one of the many harbour side hostelries where sea fishermen of times past assembled to finish their arduous working day. Alternatively, you may prefer a coffee house, or eat fish and chips sat on one of the many benches around the harbour and watch the day pass by as you reflect on your excursion.

To complete your day you may wish to visit either the Brixham Heritage Museum or the Strand Art Gallery. The museum is in the old Police Station next to the old Market Hall at Bolton Cross at the end of Fore Street . It's open Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm, Saturday 10am to 1pm. Sunday it is closed. The gallery is opposite the William Prince of Orange statue and exhibits work by local artists.

ANDY JAGO, APRIL 2008